Everything I've said previously about the character or culture of Mexico, does not seem to apply in the touristy beach areas, or at least not in Acapulco.
On the bus ride there, which nearly makes the trip worthwhile in itself due to scenic views of mountains and rainforests, the fist ominous sign appeared when we stopped at a toll station that had been taken over by a band of 30 or so masked men. There were two police cars and several armed police men, watching the guys with shirts wrapped around their faces rob passengers and siphon gas from passing cars. Clearly the cops were getting some sort of cut. Sign number one that we were not in for an ordinary vacation.
For all six of us to stay three nights in a pretty classy beachside hotel with a bangin pool and nice view, it cost about 45 bucks per person. Cheap lodgings are definitely a perk of Mexican vacationing. However, things did get a little expensive. Normal Mexican prices don't really apply in tourist spots. Food was pricey, bars were pricey, and then there was the continuous slew of people trying to rip you off. In my experience in D.F., people are pretty damn nice. They're honest and up-front with their prices, which are fair but can still be haggled down. These people were not really like that. They know you're only gonna be there for the weekend, they aren't gonna see you again, and they assume you're just some wealthy white American, so what's the harm? Waiters ripped us off, cab drivers tried to rip us off. Even the police were looking to charge us.
We were walking along the beach and two cops came up and started asking us for our IDs. It was dark and late and they were looking to find kids with drugs, that they could blackmail into paying them. They thoroughly searched the guys in the group (apparently they aren't allowed to touch women) and only backed down when my friend Joe started yelling in Spanish, "What gives you the right to do this? We weren't doing anything suspicious. Hey, this isn't Arizona!"
I'm sure they make a good profit doing that because drugs seemed to be pretty friggin popular there. Everywhere we went, didn't matter if it was ten in the morning, someone wanted to sell us coke. They offered my friend Steve prostitutes a couple times. Is this really our image abroad? They were so sure that we wanted some. We're Americans, why wouldn't we? Apparently, that's what young Americans do on vacation. We reap the benefits of gang violence and sexual exploitation because, hey, we're just looking to have a good time, right? Who cares if the entire tourist economy is catering to our vices, and Latin Americans are degrading themselves to make a buck? It's not my fault. Right?
The beaches were pretty, and when you got out of the resort areas, people got friendlier and stopped trying to make a buck off of you. There are some beautiful rainforest areas, including an island you can hike up to get a view of the city. There's also a pretty awesome hike you can take to see ancient petroglyphs, which was my nerdy dream come true (history AND a rainforest? Great stuff). However, the further you got from the beach, the more poverty you saw. It seemed like most of the city didn't gain much from the tourism. I guess when so much of the money comes from drugs and other tax-free ventures, money goes to cartels and there's not much left over for infrastructural and social reforms. Then again, if the cops are any indication, state organizations might not be the most trust-worthy. So, even if the government was making money, there's nothing to insure that corruption doesn't stop it from getting back to the people.
If I didn't speak Spanish, I don't think I would go to Acapulco. Even with my Spanish I don't think I'm going back. You couldn't stroll down the beach without being offered twelve thousand products. It made me feel guilty for my privilege and angry at the lack of options these people had to make a living. I was also angry about being taken advantage of so often. Even on the way back to the bus station, the taxi driver tried to charge us about twice the set price to get there. The SET price. It was on a sign at the hotel and he was driving a hotel taxi. He said it cost more because it was raining.
It was worth seeing just to be exposed to that part of the country, that kind of culture. However, I don't think the experience is really worth the money, nor does it reflect what I've come to appreciate as the spirit of Mexico. Maybe white guilt is making me feel bitter about the whole thing, and I just want to turn a blind eye to how so many places in the world work. I guess it's like, coming to the U.S. and only seeing Hollywood. You would think there was a lot of cheesey tourism, homelessness, drugs, prostitution, and people trying to overcharge you for everything. Oh wait...maybe that is how the country is. I just don't have to deal with it that much because I'm wealthy enough to go somewhere else. Like here, I can go somewhere nice in the city, or somewhere quaint like Cuernavaca. Stick to the museums and churches and you don't have to look at the people on the outskirts. Only when you're at the beach, and people won't leave you alone, are you faced with the consequences of your own country's selfish foreign policy and the economic dependency we have all helped create.
Sorry. That was preachy and kind of a downer. Moral of the story, I didn't really care for Acapulco.
Sunday, September 26, 2010
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Chilongo Likes and Dislikes
Some things you might not have known about Mexico City. (I understand these are massive generalizations, just things I’ve observed)
Things Mexicans love:
Yoghurt- So, Mexico has an obsession with yoghurt. I began noticing how often people walk around drinking yoghurt, and how many street vendors sell yoghurty fruit concoctions, and then... I saw Wal-Mart’s yoghurt aisle. Oh wait, did I say aisle? I meant 6 AISLES. It’s like yoghurtopia. Yoghurama. Apparently, the yoghurt helps with digestion problems or stomach issues related to the bacteria in the water and the food and all that. So a logical obsession, but surprising at first glance.
Making out in public- Spend a week in Mexico, and you will see at least 12 couples straight MACKIN all around you. The younger people do it because cultural norms dictate an open-door policy in most households. Because young Mexicans aren’t really allowed to make out at home, they participate in full-fledged tongue fiestas on the metro, in parks, at school. We’re talking straddling and rolling around. It can take a while to get used to. But you know the weirdest part? It’s not just the kiddos. It’s old folks, too. REAL old folks. You might think, “Aww that’s so cute! Old people canoodling.” It’s not cute. They do the same crazy public dry-humping that the kids do. It’s creepy.
Dogs- So, this one’s pretty simple. People just really like dogs here. They’re everywhere. From German shepherds to Chihuahuas, and none of them wear leashes. Pets are called “mascotas” here, like mascots. Isn’t that awesome? Wouldn’t you wanna pet if it was your mascot? It's like having a little fuzzy cheerleader. Just saying.
Chili/limón- If they could put lime and chili on the flag, I think they would. They put it in beer, on fruit, on candy, on french-fries, in ramen. Anything you can shove some lime and chili in to, go for it. At first it was like, “Whoooa guys, let’s take it down a notch. It doesn’t need to be in every single thing we eat.” I was wrong. Yes. It. Does. I’m so addicted now. I’m gonna come back to Berkeley and put tajín on my bagels, eggs, pasta, soup. OH WAIT, I already do all that. And it is delicious.
The Simpsons- You can find the Simpsons dubbed, subtitled, or just in English on at least four channels at any point in the day. Every art stand sells weird Simpsons shit, like a Simpsons Abbey Road poster, a Simpsons Michael Jackson shirt, a Simpsons Jim Morrison commemorative plate. I guess the humor just really works here. It is a hilarious show. But, it also makes me wonder how the U.S. looks to people, because I don’t really think fat, lazy, stupid, alcoholic Homer is a good representation of our country. Well, okay, he’s an accurate representation, but not the nicest image to present globally.
On to the things they don’t like:
Accessible toilet paper- So, in order to save paper I guess, toilet paper isn’t in the individual stalls here. It’s up at the entrance to the bathroom. This is a good idea and I really don’t have an issue with it. My issue lies in my stupid inability to remember to get some before I lock myself in the stall. At which point, I usually think “Oh…damn,” and try to find a napkin in my backpack or just go with it. Too much information, I know.
Being on time- Okay, so I know this might sound offensive. But, it’s friggin true. Movies don’t really start on time here. Class starts whenever. Students regularly show up an hour late to a three hour class. My teachers will come late, or sometimes not at all. No explanation necessary. At restaurants, you get served whenever they feel like it. Someone might get their food 35 minutes before the other people at the table. It’s not a bad thing. It’s actually really cool. It’s teaching me to be more laid back, not sweat the little things. People just have their priorities straight here, I think. They do what they need to do instead of stressing about the timeframe. When they show up to class, they’re prepared and spout smarter ideas than I could ever fathom speaking. When the food comes, it’s perfectly cooked and seasoned. You just have to learn to live by a more flexible schedule.
Flushing toilet paper- So, I don’t know why the bathroom stuff is so interesting to me. But ya, they don’t really flush toilet paper here. I guess it’s about not clogging the toilet or something, but everyone wipes and throws the paper in the trash. I’m not really cool with it. I mean, I am, because I have no choice. But there is some shit I just don’t want to have to look at... literally.
The sound of silence- Ya, they don’t really do “peace and quiet” here. There’s music everywhere, all the time. Every Saturday morning a guy plays the most outrageously loud trumpet outside my house, just cuz that’s where and when he wants to practice. At my old place a dude played the violin all day. People have parties and play music as loud as they want until whenever they want, and you just deal with it. I thought it would bug me, but it doesn’t. It’s like having this constant, lively soundtrack to your daily activities. Even in class, people play Michael Jackson and Nirvana outside the window and nobody closes it. Kurt Cobain just streams in and accompanies the professor’s lecture on colonial religious structures. It goes with the whole “not sweating the little things” attitude. The world is not sectioned off into your space and that guy’s space, where he can’t bump you or make noises that might bother you because that’s an “invasion”. Mexico’s like a big community. He plays his music, and tomorrow I play mine, and I’m gonna laugh as loud as I want because I’m having a good conversation and I refuse to worry about what that guy thinks, and he doesn't care, because my volume isn't really any of his business.
Blank surfaces- Beige doesn’t happen here. It doesn’t exist. Every building has blue, red, pink, or yellow. There’s never a white wall or median. Bright advertisements are spray-painted on the concrete, or of course, there’s the street art. Street art is HUGE here. It comes from a long tradition of mural painting and accessible artwork. There are some pretty amazing stencils and posters. A lot of it is political. Communism is pretty popular among the city’s liberals. Calderon is also not the most popular guy so a lot of it revolves around him. Many of the pieces are incredibly detailed, full-on public art installments. They can be scary or sexy or pensive, but no matter what they are, they’re beautiful. They cover the city like a rainbow of exploding experimental creativity from brilliant minds, focused through brushes and spray-cans, and then shared with the people in a public display of affectionate guerrilla beauty. It’s a great place to live.
Things Mexicans love:
Yoghurt- So, Mexico has an obsession with yoghurt. I began noticing how often people walk around drinking yoghurt, and how many street vendors sell yoghurty fruit concoctions, and then... I saw Wal-Mart’s yoghurt aisle. Oh wait, did I say aisle? I meant 6 AISLES. It’s like yoghurtopia. Yoghurama. Apparently, the yoghurt helps with digestion problems or stomach issues related to the bacteria in the water and the food and all that. So a logical obsession, but surprising at first glance.
Making out in public- Spend a week in Mexico, and you will see at least 12 couples straight MACKIN all around you. The younger people do it because cultural norms dictate an open-door policy in most households. Because young Mexicans aren’t really allowed to make out at home, they participate in full-fledged tongue fiestas on the metro, in parks, at school. We’re talking straddling and rolling around. It can take a while to get used to. But you know the weirdest part? It’s not just the kiddos. It’s old folks, too. REAL old folks. You might think, “Aww that’s so cute! Old people canoodling.” It’s not cute. They do the same crazy public dry-humping that the kids do. It’s creepy.
Dogs- So, this one’s pretty simple. People just really like dogs here. They’re everywhere. From German shepherds to Chihuahuas, and none of them wear leashes. Pets are called “mascotas” here, like mascots. Isn’t that awesome? Wouldn’t you wanna pet if it was your mascot? It's like having a little fuzzy cheerleader. Just saying.
Chili/limón- If they could put lime and chili on the flag, I think they would. They put it in beer, on fruit, on candy, on french-fries, in ramen. Anything you can shove some lime and chili in to, go for it. At first it was like, “Whoooa guys, let’s take it down a notch. It doesn’t need to be in every single thing we eat.” I was wrong. Yes. It. Does. I’m so addicted now. I’m gonna come back to Berkeley and put tajín on my bagels, eggs, pasta, soup. OH WAIT, I already do all that. And it is delicious.
The Simpsons- You can find the Simpsons dubbed, subtitled, or just in English on at least four channels at any point in the day. Every art stand sells weird Simpsons shit, like a Simpsons Abbey Road poster, a Simpsons Michael Jackson shirt, a Simpsons Jim Morrison commemorative plate. I guess the humor just really works here. It is a hilarious show. But, it also makes me wonder how the U.S. looks to people, because I don’t really think fat, lazy, stupid, alcoholic Homer is a good representation of our country. Well, okay, he’s an accurate representation, but not the nicest image to present globally.
On to the things they don’t like:
Accessible toilet paper- So, in order to save paper I guess, toilet paper isn’t in the individual stalls here. It’s up at the entrance to the bathroom. This is a good idea and I really don’t have an issue with it. My issue lies in my stupid inability to remember to get some before I lock myself in the stall. At which point, I usually think “Oh…damn,” and try to find a napkin in my backpack or just go with it. Too much information, I know.
Being on time- Okay, so I know this might sound offensive. But, it’s friggin true. Movies don’t really start on time here. Class starts whenever. Students regularly show up an hour late to a three hour class. My teachers will come late, or sometimes not at all. No explanation necessary. At restaurants, you get served whenever they feel like it. Someone might get their food 35 minutes before the other people at the table. It’s not a bad thing. It’s actually really cool. It’s teaching me to be more laid back, not sweat the little things. People just have their priorities straight here, I think. They do what they need to do instead of stressing about the timeframe. When they show up to class, they’re prepared and spout smarter ideas than I could ever fathom speaking. When the food comes, it’s perfectly cooked and seasoned. You just have to learn to live by a more flexible schedule.
Flushing toilet paper- So, I don’t know why the bathroom stuff is so interesting to me. But ya, they don’t really flush toilet paper here. I guess it’s about not clogging the toilet or something, but everyone wipes and throws the paper in the trash. I’m not really cool with it. I mean, I am, because I have no choice. But there is some shit I just don’t want to have to look at... literally.
The sound of silence- Ya, they don’t really do “peace and quiet” here. There’s music everywhere, all the time. Every Saturday morning a guy plays the most outrageously loud trumpet outside my house, just cuz that’s where and when he wants to practice. At my old place a dude played the violin all day. People have parties and play music as loud as they want until whenever they want, and you just deal with it. I thought it would bug me, but it doesn’t. It’s like having this constant, lively soundtrack to your daily activities. Even in class, people play Michael Jackson and Nirvana outside the window and nobody closes it. Kurt Cobain just streams in and accompanies the professor’s lecture on colonial religious structures. It goes with the whole “not sweating the little things” attitude. The world is not sectioned off into your space and that guy’s space, where he can’t bump you or make noises that might bother you because that’s an “invasion”. Mexico’s like a big community. He plays his music, and tomorrow I play mine, and I’m gonna laugh as loud as I want because I’m having a good conversation and I refuse to worry about what that guy thinks, and he doesn't care, because my volume isn't really any of his business.
Blank surfaces- Beige doesn’t happen here. It doesn’t exist. Every building has blue, red, pink, or yellow. There’s never a white wall or median. Bright advertisements are spray-painted on the concrete, or of course, there’s the street art. Street art is HUGE here. It comes from a long tradition of mural painting and accessible artwork. There are some pretty amazing stencils and posters. A lot of it is political. Communism is pretty popular among the city’s liberals. Calderon is also not the most popular guy so a lot of it revolves around him. Many of the pieces are incredibly detailed, full-on public art installments. They can be scary or sexy or pensive, but no matter what they are, they’re beautiful. They cover the city like a rainbow of exploding experimental creativity from brilliant minds, focused through brushes and spray-cans, and then shared with the people in a public display of affectionate guerrilla beauty. It’s a great place to live.
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